Using a drill stand
A well-made drill stand will easily pay for itself in time saved correcting mistakes. The rigid upright column has a ratchet mechanism on the front so that the drill can be moved up and down slowly and precisely - and always at right angles to the face of the wood. Remember to fix the drill collar tightly in the cramp before switching on.
Using a brace and bit
A brace is designed to bore large wide holes, using auger bits. The cranked handle design allows you to turn the chuck slowly but with a great deal of force. Because of the slow speed, the bit can be fully controlled for accurate drilling.
Place the screw thread on the end of the auger bit on to the starter mark and begin to drill so that the screw thread bites into the wood. The golden rule is to let the drill do the work and don't press too hard.
Although there are power tools for almost every woodwork task, its often more economic or convenient to use a small drill attachment. Make sure the work is firmly fixed and use both hands to steady the drill.
Hole saw cutters come in sizes up to about 3in (75mm) and are sold in sets. Should be used with a drillstand and on the medium speed setting.
Sanding belts are wrapped around rubber drums fixed to a metal spindle. Sizes range up to about 6in (150mm) diameter. You can also attach flat sanding disks and soft buffing wheels for polishing wood finishes or metal.
Screwdriver bits need a chuck attachment which can hold different screwdriver tips in its end. As with ordinary screwdrivers, you will need crosshead and slot bits in several sizes.
Flexible shafts - are attached to the chuck to allow the user to reach into awkward areas or use the drill as a 'mini' handheld drill for fine work.