Measuring for glass splashbacks.
Measuring and fitting your own Glass splashbacks isn’t as hard as you think. By following our guide you can save yourself hundreds in tradesmen costs.
First, draw a horizontal line on your wall 3mm above your worktop using a spirit level.
Mark further lines at right angles to this line where you plan each splashback/upstand to start and end.
Note: If your cooker splashback is to fit between 2 units or other surfaces, mark the lines 2mm in from each surface.
You must leave a 3mm expansion gap where the glass meets another surface (wall, worktop, cooker hood). Where two glass panels meet each other, no expansion gap is necessary.
Measuring around electrical sockets depends on how competent you are at DIY. A novice DIYer should probably just measure for a cooker splashback and upstands (maximum glass height for upstands is up to socket height minus an expansion gap). A more experienced DIYer could attempt to also measure around their electrical sockets to fit full wall height glass splashbacks (between worktop and wall units).
Remember when measuring around sockets that your sockets should fit on top of the glass, so make allowances for this. Typically an electrical back box is 70mm x 70mm for a single socket but the socket itself can be up to 90mm x 90mm. So you can safely allow about 80mm x 80mm for a single socket. The backbox for a double socket is typically 130mm x 70mm, so a size of 140mm x 80mm would be recommended.
If you would like full wall height and are not prepared to measure this yourself you can use a measuring service and provide digital measurements to the glass supplier to cut the glass using a CNC machine. The glass is then made to the exact size and shape of the digital template. Typically this service can cost anything from £150 to £300.
A further option is to make your own templates (or get a joiner to) out of 6mm mdf/plywood. The glass splashbacks can then be made to the exact size and shape of the templates. For a tidy finish, all electrical sockets should be removed during the templating process (it may be safer to use an electrician for this). This will allow your glass splashbacks to fit neatly behind your sockets leaving no visible gaps.
If two splashbacks or upstands meet at a corner then ensure you also allow an additional 8mm for glass thickness and adhesive depth for one of the pieces (so if 2 pieces meet at a corner, one piece should stop 10-11mm short of the wall to allow for the other piece and an expansion gap- the other piece should be the full distance to the wall minus 2-3mm).
Next, check your measurements by adding the splashback widths together and add on your expansion gap widths. The total width should match the width of your wall.
A further check is to get someone else to measure and if your figures aren’t the same measure again. It is very important to get them right before ordering your glass as toughened glass cannot be re-cut.
Fitting glass splashbacks
Ensure all surfaces are dust free.
You may wish to hire an electrician to remove and refit your power sockets.
After the power to your kitchen electrical sockets has been switched off and your sockets are removed you can begin to fit your glass splashbacks.
Lie the splashbacks down with the painted side facing up.
Apply blobs of NEUTRAL CURE SILICONE evenly sized and spaced to the painted side of the glass (normal silicone will eat the paint and ruin your splashbacks).
Beginning with your cooker splashback, secure the glass to the wall.
Use 3mm tile spacers to maintain your expansion gaps, you may need to increase or decrease these gaps to ensure the joins in your glass are neat depending on how accurately you measured.
Put your socket covers back on being careful not to screw them on too tightly.
Allow at least 24 hours for the adhesive to dry then remove your tile spacers and seal the edges using more neutral cure silcone.
How to clean glass splashbacks
Keeping them clean is very straightforward, you simply polish or wipe with standard glass cleaner.